Frej: Nordic in Brooklyn

Posted on April 21, 2012


Frej: Nordic in Brooklyn
by AnneLise Sorensen

Most pop-ups have a strong whiff of a marketing ploy. Frej just has a strong whiff of dill and elderflower.

This sprightly new Scandinavian pop-up has been quietly turning out nightly dinners, Monday to Wednesday, at Kinfolk Studios in Brooklyn. The cuisine, like a perfectly crafted piece of Danish midcentury silver, is spare, clean, utilitarian – and exquisite.

Consider the spring menu, culled from New York farms: smoked trout with egg yolk, dill and chickweed; beef cooked in hay, with rutabaga and apple cider; and cardamom parfait, raspberry and walnut. The price? $45.

In fact, Frej has been receiving such steady praise – Zagat’s recent cliché headline: “NYC’s best-kept culinary secret!” – that it may eventually go from pop-up to permanent. (A pop-perm? A stop-up?)

Through it all, the two young chefs, Fredrik Berselius and Richard Kuo (pictured), maintain a simple philosophy: “We try to bring our guests closer to those who raise the animals and harvest the crops.”

Frej – the Norse God of Harvest – would be proud.

Frej, Kinfolk Studios, 90 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn,

“New in NY: Frej” by AnneLise Sorensen originally appeared on MSN (Microsoft Network) Postbox.